The first step is to locate the proper exposure for the tree or shrub
that was bought, i.e. sun or shade. Secondly, how tall or wide this
plant will be at maturity will determine the distance between plants, or
the distance from the house or building one must plant it from.
The hole in the ground must be twice the size of the root ball or pot
that the plant material was in when purchased. This will give the root
system easy, loose soil eventually to reroot into. Discard half of the
soil that was from the hole you just dug and replace that same amount
with peat moss. This 50/50 mix of peat moss and soil together will be
used to back fill the hole with later.
Place the newly purchased plant in the hole. The depth of this hole
should generally be 1-2" deeper than the pot or ball. Back fill with the
peat moss soil mixture, lightly compacting the soil around the root
system as you go. After filling the hole halfway with the soil, give the
plant a good drink of water, letting the soil settle. Next, finish
filling the hole with the remaining peat moss soil mixture, covering the
existing soil ball no more than 1-3".
Large trees should be staked for a complete growing season. Weekly
watering should be done throughout the first year.
A Landscaper/Lawn Service:
Irondequoit Lawn Landscaping
Sod Busters Landscaping
Tree Surgeon:
Gary St. James
671-8432
Rental Equipment:
Durand's Rent All:
621-7318 Dewey Ave.
424-4920 East Henrietta Road
264-0850 Penfield Road
Bulk Organic Products, Stone, Topsoil:
Earth Products:
617-4870
Lawn Rolling:
Snow Plowing:
Ironequoit Lawn & Landscaping
Sod Busters Landscaping
If the plant is indoors, it could be that it is not getting enough
sunlight. Try increasing the amount of sunlight by moving it closer to
a window or by changing the location to a window in a south or west
exposure.
This plant also might be a photo - periodic plant. This means that it
blooms either with long days or short days. Some plants' flowering
mechanism will be triggered to bloom with the corresponding amount of
light the plant gets. For instance: a poinsettia, Christmas cactus, or
mum plant will only bloom when it receives 12 hours or less of sunlight
a day. This happens September 25 - March 20 every year. Others like
kalanchoe, begonias, fuchsias bloom when they receive more than 12 hours
of sunlight a day. This naturally occurs March 20 - September 25.
Four things could be wrong. First the plant could be planted in the
wrong light location. A full sun plant like a lilac bush planted in the
shade will not flower. Determine the type of plant and it's proper
exposure.
Second, the ph of the soil or something wrong with the chemical make
up of nutrients could be a factor. Have a soil test done to determine
if these could be contributing to the lack of buds or blooms. A soil
test will determine if the ph of the soil should be adjusted or if a
special fertilizer is necessary to correct any nutrient deficiency.
Third, if trimming in the current growing season was done, some
plants like rhododendrons, azaleas and lilacs, set their buds for the
coming year on this years' new growth. By trimming during the
current growing season, you removed this new growth and next years'
flowers.
The fourth thing that could be wrong is that the plant is under
stress form insects or watering problems. Check for deformed new growth
on the leaves that would indicate an insect. Thrips and midges are
usually the cause of this problem and can be treated with insecticide
sprays.
From the south side of Rochester: take Route 390 North to 590 North,
exit at Titus Ave. ( can only turn left, at light). Continue west on
Titus Ave. for 4 signal lights, The 4th light is Cooper Road - you can
only turn right at this light. Genrich's is on the left hand side 1.1
miles down Cooper Road, across the street from Irondequoit High School.
From the west side of Rochester: take Route 104 (Ridge Road) East to
the Hudson Ave. exit. Turn left at Hudson and continue to the end, going
north. At the end of Hudson Ave. turn right onto Titus Ave. At the
next light, turn left onto Cooper Road. Genrich's is on the left hand
side 1.1 miles down Cooper Road, across the street from Irondequoit High
School.
From the east side of Rochester: take Route 104 West over the Bay
Bridge to the Hudson Ave. exit. Turn right onto Hudson Ave and
continue to the end going north. At the end of Hudson Ave. turn right
onto Titus Ave. At the next light, turn left onto Cooper Road.
Genrich's is on the left hand side 1.1 miles down Cooper Road, across
the street from Irondequoit High School.
From the north side of Rochester: take the Ontario State Parkway to
the end, turn left onto Lake Ave and take a quick right going over the
Stutson Street Bridge. Once over the bridge, turn right onto Thomas
Ave. Take Thomas Ave, to the end, turning right onto St. Paul Blvd.
Continue on St. Paul Blvd to the next signal light; at the light
continue straight (this is now Cooper Road). Genrich's is .5 miles on
the right side of the street.
An annual is a plant that lasts for one growing season and dies at
the first hard frost or freeze. Examples are petunias, vegetable plants,
some lawn weeds. Annuals start from a seed that germinates in spring,
when ground temperatures rise. This plant goes through a complete life
cycle in a growing season. Being killed by freezing temperatures makes
this plant not winter hardy and ends its life cycle. This type
of plant must be planted each and every year. Must annuals are grown
for a specific purpose - either for their flowering ability or
harvesting their fruit. Almost all annuals have a soft non-woody stem
and are only reproduced by seed or cutting.
A perennial is a plant that will tolerate freezing temperatures and
lasts more than one growing season. Examples are trees, shrubs, some
lawn weeds, hardy mums. Some perennials stay alive above ground and
re-leaf in spring. Others die back to the soil surface and their roots
stay dormant throughout the winter, re-growing the following spring when
temperature start to rise again. All perennials will withstand freezing
weather, lasting more than one growing season. All perennials have a
woody stem or are from a corm, bulb, root stock..
The first application for grub killer should be applied when
the soil temperatures start to rise in the early spring. The grubs that
over wintered for fall start to rise to the soil surface as the ground
temperature increases.
This is usually between April 1st - May 1st in Zone 5 (
Greater Finger Lakes region). This application will deal with the grub
population that over wintered from last fall
The second application should be applied in fall to combat the
newly hatched larva from the summer mating. If this is left unattended,
the population will be there next spring. This application should be
applied August 1st - Sept 15th.
All grub killers should be applied to a dry lawn and watered in after
the application is made.
* HINT: Keeping the soil moist up in the ground after
application is a must in order for the grub killer to stay effective.
All spring flowering bulbs must be planted in the fall. This allows
the bulb to establish roots in the ground as well as going through a
cold treatment process. Plant them as early as possible between
September 1st through October 30th, or until the ground reaches 42
degrees.
The best time is to plant in spring simply for the fact that most
people are out in the garden area, thereby tending to their care
better. Also, control of watering and weather conditions are more
favorable.
Fall planting is also a great option for hardier plant material such
as trees and evergreens. In the fall, plants can be planted right up
until the ground freezes.
When an insect problem arises, one should identify the insect
properly and choose the appropriate control. Applications should be
done first thing in the morning when sunlight and winds are at a
minimum.
Late evenings are also an opportune time for applications as they dry
slower, thereby increasing the insects' exposure to the insecticides for
longer periods.
Avoid spraying when temperatures and humidity levels are high. This
greatly increases the chance of leaf burn or sun scald to the flowers or
foliage.
The correct time to water outdoors is first thing in the morning.
This allows ample time for the foliage to dry and allows the water to
soak in and not evaporate before the hot summer sun intensifies.
Watering late in the evening should be avoided as this exposes the
foliage to be wet for longer periods and increases the chance of
diseases or fungus to set in.
Traditionally, Memorial Day is the last record frost date in Zone 5.
This would be the last week in May. Night temperatures should be above
50 degrees. Annuals like vinca, impatiens, begonias, coleus, zinnias,
tomatoes and peppers will not benefit any from chilled nights. This
will decrease flower production and/or stunt the plant's growth.
Plants like petunias, geraniums, cabbage, broccoli and snapdragons
will benefit in cooler temperatures to get started.
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